Nectar from the Gods: In Praise Of Niagara's Late Harvest Wines

Golden in colour and sweet on the palette, late harvest wines coat the tongue with complex layers of floral and fruity undertones. Niagara wineries excel at creating these liquid crown jewels of autumn. Anyone in search of the perfect host gift or a special addition to their own table simply must try one.

What is a late harvest wine?

Late harvest wines are made from grapes that are left on the vine well past the typical harvest period. Over time, the grapes naturally dehydrate, and this loss of water creates a greater concentration of sugars and flavours. According to VQA Ontario standards, wines are categorized based on the grape’s sugar level (measured in degrees Brix) at harvest, with late harvest wines starting at 22° Brix and Icewines topping 35°.

While traditional late harvest wines achieve their sweetness through this natural desiccation, wineries like Pillitteri Estates take a unique approach. “We make our late harvest wines from the second pressing of icewine grapes,” says Jeff Letvenuk, Director of Marketing at Pillitteri. “This method retains much of the flavour intensity and complexity that people love in icewine, but with a lighter sweetness and more approachable profile.”

The Late Harvest Riesling 2019 from 13th Street Winery results from a similar process, as described in the company’s winemaking notes: “Following the pressing of the juice for icewine, the frozen grapes were allowed to slightly warm resulting in the perfect juice for Late Harvest Riesling.”

Because the grapes hang longer, sometimes through freeze-thaw cycles, late harvest wines develop a range of flavours — from bright citrus and stone fruit to more decadent notes of caramel and dried apricot. Popular grapes used in Pilliteri’s late harvest wines include vidal, riesling, and cabernet. Vidal offers lush tropical fruit, Riesling brings vibrant citrus and minerality, and Cabernet provides a striking red fruit expression that’s rare in sweet wines.

Over at Malivoire Wine Company, Shiraz Mottiar, General Manager and Winemaker, champions gewürztraminer when producing late harvest wines. “It really showcases the floral, spicy, and exotic fruit characteristics found in the variety,” he says.

Icewine vs. Late Harvest

Some people taste similarities between late harvest wine and icewine, for good reason. “Think of late harvest as the little brother of icewine,” says Letvenuk. “It’s more widely approachable, with a lower price point, but lacks the intense finish Icewine aficionados crave.”

Still, both styles must be made with naturally sweetened juice. Icewine requires a minimum residual sugar of 100g/L (often much more), whereas late harvest wines can vary widely, with some as low as 30g/L.

Dessert and beyond

Late harvest wines are surprisingly versatile. Though often labelled as dessert wines, they have a natural acidity and balance and pair well with a range of dishes, especially when on the drier side. “They’re especially popular in Asian cuisine pairings,” Letvenuk adds, “where the wines’ fruit and aromatics complement heat and bold flavours beautifully.”

Mottiar agrees: “Our 2023 late harvest gewürztraminer at 30g/L can work with sweeter dishes in Filipino or Cantonese cuisines, or alongside cheeses and pâtés.”Whether you’re enjoying a bottle of Pillitteri’s Canada Collection Vidal Late Harvest or a Gewürztraminer from Malivoire, Niagara’s late harvest wines showcase the region and its winemaking artistry, one sweet, satisfying sip at a time.

The next time you scan the wine aisles, expand your taste horizons by reaching for this hidden gem of the Niagara wine scene.